Archive for March, 2008
Monday, March 24th, 2008
In a world that’s going grey about grime and industrial waste spoiling the lungs of the city-weary soul, we’re glad we have one of the world’s cleanest villages surviving yet, in the Northeast that is slowly going the commercial way.
Nestled cosily between the plains of Bangladesh and the foothills of the War region, Mawlynnong which is a good three hours drive from Shillong is a cute, colourful little village renowned for its cleanliness. Autumn is the right season to visit this paradise on terra fi rma. The village is a picture perfect painting with a splash of colours. Vibrant red, yellow and green Coleus and Japonica grow profusely by the roadside giving the whole village the scenario of a piece of Eden.
DISCOVERY BY OVERSEAS TOURISTS
An unmistakable aroma of bay leaves invades your senses as you get closer to Mawlynnong. The pleasant climate is just right for some of the most exotic flora and fauna. Interestingly the first tourists to have visited Mawlynnong came from across the oceans. Several international visitors have come and gone leaving their imprints behind in a little journal. Every tourist narrates his/her unique experiences. A ninety-eight year old lady from Israel came to Mawlynnong to soak in its serenity. She even asked the local tourist guides to take her down to river Thyllong, a pristine piece of water body, perhaps one of the few left in our state. The matriarch wanted to see for herself the living root bridge that spans the banks of this river, not unlike the one you see in Laitkynsew village, albeit not so challenging and not a double decker, so it is easier to negotiate.
GUEST HOUSE
Mawlynnong’s fame is now drawing an endless stream of guests ranging from bus-loads of school kids to curious visitors from across the country. Although residential facilities are still scarce and are in the process of being developed, the existing one constructed from bamboo and thatch is quite hospitable and restful; the best part – it’s a tree house! It has a little machang (a sort of verandah) giving you a view of the river flowing beneath, and also rendering a cool zephyr. Mawlynnong is an artist’s delight and the sort of getaway that would titillate creative writers and poets, no less than it would attract serious researchers wanting to fi nd out how tourism has caught on in this remote destination.
Young men from this village have taken to being tourist guides, learning their trades through trial and error, and are eager to receive tips from experienced tourists. A crash course on tourism would defi nitely be benefi cial for these young lads. Mawlynnong has a range of sights and sounds, all natural. There are water falls, treks and picnic spots. The sparklingly clean streams and rivulets of this village are reminiscent of the good old days when all the rivers in this hill state were crystal clear and you could drink the water without the fear of it being polluted.
FRUITFUL SOUVENIRS
Mawlynnong is not just about sight seeing. There is a profusion of fruits like oranges, grapefruit, lemon, and a range of vegetables growing in the village that tourists would like to take home. People pursue their traditional livelihoods growing betel nut, betel leaf and a host of spices. Bamboo crafts specific to the place are also gradually coming up.
Broomstick farming is a common occupation. This grass is easily cultivable and does not require the kind of care nor manure that other crops do. In January every year, which is the time when the harvested broomstick is suffi ciently dried and ready for sale, the mahajons or traders from Shillong come to pick them up in bulk. Farmers earn roughly Rs. 400 per quintal of broomstick. Mawlynnong is still largely forested with stretches cleared for plantation crops. People are enterprising and find something to grow all the year round.
THE OTHER SIDE OF TOURISM
But there is a flip side to this tourist friendly environment too. Promising a haven away from the rough and tumble of city life, Mawlynnong raises the expectations of the tourists who might like to determine their own comfort levels that the villagers may not be able to provide. It is here that Mawlynnong needs to assert its niche attraction. The idea is for tourists to live as close to nature as possible without looking for five-star comfort. Hopefully, Mawlynnong will preserve its simple lifestyle and not get carried away by the onrush of tourist expectations.
THE ROLE OF ECOTOURISM
At this moment what fears the concerned, is the propensity of the villagers to clear up virgin forests for broomstick cultivation. A tourist destination like Mawlynnong will be viable as long as there are forests to provide the ambience of serendipity. This is where ecotourism comes in as a strong contender and conserver of natural resources. If the Tourism Department works in tandem with the Forest Department, and the education of the people is taken seriously, they would be aware of the huge gains that come from eco-tourism and hence refrain from cutting the timber for earning money.
In states like Meghalaya with fragile bio-diversity, eco-tourism is the only alternative to logging and the rampant clearance of forests for mono-cropping. If Mawlynnong succeeds in drawing a steady stream of tourists throughout the year, the remuneration will spread more evenly across families. Even today the local villagers are earning their bit from providing hospitality and cooking the local cuisine.
TAKE A VACATION
Mawlynnong is a wonderful place to unwind and refresh one’s tired nerves. A brisk walk to any of the vantage points, and there are plenty, would not only churn up a good appetite but also give the tourist a rewarding experience of a good, sound sleep. Without your cell phone to disturb the even tenor of life and with just a transistor to keep abreast of the world, Mawlynnong is guaranteed to rejuvenate the bone weary and stressed-out city dweller. Here you are lulled to sleep by the chirping of the cricket and a dozen other fascinating sounds from the forest; sounds that this generation no longer recognizes.
Mawlynnong beckons those bitten by the adventure bug. A good number of visitors today are from Shillong. And many others come from different corners of the nation and abroad to soothe their frayed nerves in this home away from home. The prototypical Eden shall bring greater benefits, if only man upholds the gifts that Nature has over-
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Monday, March 24th, 2008
BRITISH AUTHOR JAMES HILTON IN HIS NOVEL, ‘LOST HORIZON’ INTRODUCES THE CONCEPT OF “SHANGRILA”, A MYSTICAL, HARMONIOUS VALLEY, GUIDED FROM A MONASTERY. IT HAS NOW BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH AN EARTHLY PARADISE, PARTICULARLY A MYTHICAL HIMALAYAN UTOPIA—A PERMANENTLY HAPPY LAND, ISOLATED FROM THE OUTSIDE WORLD.
The nearest thing we can come close to experiencing Shangri-la in real life, is Sikkim – the only brother state of the seven Northeastern sister states. Perched in the midst of the twin mountain kingdoms of Bhutan and Nepal is the tiny state of Sikkim, beckoning the weary travellers with its misty mountains and undulating hills. There is always something that escapes the common eye and attracts the weather beaten traveller to this mystical land.
And it’s only when we delve deeper into its hidden secrets that we come to know and feel its full grandeur. The starting point of our journey is the capital city, Gangtok. The mere mention of this name conjures images of the mist hidden hills, tall gompas and the mystique of Orient. A mere four hour journey from Siliguri, lands one in Gangtok, Which means ‘High Hill.’ Gangtok became the capital in the mid 1800s (previous capitals were at Yuksom and Rabdentse). Sikkimese life is centred around this place. Its Buddhist past is the root of its appeal for visitors, and remains evident at the impressive Institute of Tibetology, the Enchey Monastery, Pemayengtse and the marvellous Rumtek Monastery not far away, the last a thriving centre of Mahayana Buddhism. Sikkim’s pride, the orchid, is nurtured at the Orchid Sanctuary and other sites in and around Gangtok.
With the Kanchenjunga, the world’s third highest mountain and the protective deity of the Sikkimese people - towering overhead and blessed with a magnifi cent landscape of fastflowing rivers and lush forested hills, Sikkim has evolved into a very popular destination in recent times for both domestic and foreign tourists. Let us follow the trail to fi nd out something more about the notable sights basking under the Gangtok sun.
INSTITUTE OF TIBETOLOGY
Just a mile from Gangtok, is the Institute of Tibetology, an organisation dedicated to furthering Tibetan studies, Buddhist philosophy and region. It attracts scholars from all over the world and houses a rare collection of 30,000 books, Tantric documents, rare manuscripts written in gold on the bark of a poisonous tree!
DUL-DUL CHORTEN & JHANG CLUB CHORTAN
Near the Deorali bazaar, are two exquisite stupas, the “Dul-dul-Chorten”, to commemorate the victory of good over evil, and the “Jhang Club Chorten”, built to perpetuate the memory of a great spiritualist of today. Th rul-Shik Rinpoche an ardent devotee of Buddha and one of his best interpreters died in 1962, and the stupa immortalises Rimpoche in the land of his birth.
TSUK-LA-KHANG MONASTERY
This monastery is located in the palace premises near the ridge in Gangtok. It is two-storeyed and was used during royal functions like weddings and coronations. Th e Phang Labsol and the Lossang festivals are celebrated in the ground adjacent to the monastery once every year, with the performance of the ‘Chhams’ or the masked dances.
ENCHEY MONASTERY
It is situated in Gangtok on a hill top. It was built during the reign of Thutob Namgyal.
DEER PARK
Embraced by gardens of flowers, lies a beautiful Deer Park – an ideal place to feel solitude, beside the Secretariat. Built to commemorate the Buddha’s reincarnation as a musk deer, it has a large fi elded statue of Buddha under a beautiful canopy in preaching posture, a replica of the statue at Sarnath in Uttar Pradesh, where Lord Buddha delivered his fi rst sermon. It is a popular viewpoint on the edge of the ridge.
A unique feature of Sikkimese culture are its famous mask dances which provides a spectacle, perhaps nowhere to be experienced in the entire world. Performed by lamas in the ‘Gompa’ courtyard to celebrate religious festivals, these dances demonstrate perfect footwork and grace.
For the more adventurous kind, a little detour outside Gangtok offers a plethora of varied images in the form of the famed monasteries of Sikkim, some of which are –
RUMTEK MONASTERY
About 24 km from Gangtok, by meandering roads through emerald green rice terraces, lies Rumtek, the main monastery of Kagyud or ‘Black Hat’ sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Built in 1959 by His Holiness the 16th Reincarnated Gyalwa Karmapa, head of the Kagyud sect, it is a replica of Tsurphu Monastery from the Kham region of Tibet.
PEMAYANGTSE MONASTERY
Built in 1705, it is Sikkim’s second oldest monastery and second most important. This ancient monastery is the headquarters of the Nyingmapa Buddhist sect of Sikkim. Inside are great murals fi lled with thousands of deities from the Tibetan Buddhist pantheon. On the top fl oor is a wooden sculpture, the Zandog-Palri, which depicts the heavenly abode of Guru Padmasambhava.
YUKSOM
Yuksom, in the west of Gangtok, is an historical town set amidst pristine hills and lakes, where the first King of Sikkim was crowned in AD 1642. From here the adventurous can trek to Dzongri and Gochi-La. Th e reward for undertaking this strenuous excursion is an unequalled fi rst-hand experience of the high Himalaya peaks, glaciers and icefalls. A superb panorama of the Eastern Himalayas awaits the trekker.
A top spot on the ‘not to be missed’ list while in Sikkim, is the TSOMGO LAKE. Tsomgo lake in Sikkim is a holy lake worshipped by the Sikkimese. Tsomgo (Changu) lake, which is hardly 20 km away from the famous Nathula Pass and about 400 km from Lhasa. Its cool, placid water is in perfect harmony with the picturesque beauty around, which is increased by its refl ection in the lake. A small temple of Lord Shiva is built on the lakeside. Primula flowers and other alpine plantation grow around the Tsomgo lake. During the winter months, the Tsomo Lake becomes frozen.
Wonders never cease in North Sikkim with each turn, each valley, each rivulet trying to outdo the other in the scenic beauty that it off ers. Another much sought after spot in the north is the LACHUNG village. Hidden away from the prying eyes of the tourism department is this gem of a place, unravelling its secrets only to the few discerning travellers. An idyllic mountain village set amidst apple orchards and lofty peaks on both sides, Lachung, at an altitude of 2,500 meters above sea level, permeates an ethereal alpine glow.
For those worn out by the morbidity of routine urban life, a few days in this pristine setting is guaranteed to recharge the batteries. But more than that, is the sweet taste of lingering memories, one carries back with him, of a place hidden in the hills, a place they call Sikkim…
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Monday, March 24th, 2008
If there is one place in the Northeast where nature seems to be at its best, it must be Arunachal Pradesh. Blue-green hills, gurgling streams, winding rivers, and breathtaking scenery – Arunachal Pradesh presents a serene and tranquil atmosphere, offering respite to weary souls.
Boarding a flight from Kolkata we reached Guwahati, from where we drove to Tezpur which is about 200 kilometres away. The very next morning we hit the trail, and 60 kilometres later, we arrived at Bhalukpong, the gateway to Arunachal Pradesh. It is still a restricted area; foreigners need a government permit and even Indians are required to carry an inner line permit. Located at the farthest point in the Northeastern part of India, Arunachal Pradesh occupies a strategic position amongst the other Northeastern hill states of the country. Known as the Land of the Dawn-lit Mountains, it shares its borders with Bhutan in the west, China in the north and northeast, and Myanmar (former Burma) in the east and southeast. Assam lies to its south.
AMAZING SIGHTS
Our destination for the day was Dirang via Bomdila. An interesting stop-over point is Tipi which boasts of some rare collection of orchids. The journey from Sessa and Neciphu (two sleepy hamlets), and Tenga (an army camp set in sylvan surroundings), was uneventful. But gradually, as the plains gave way to the rugged terrain, we began to ascend the hills at regular intervals. If at one point we were at 5500 ft, fifty minutes later we would descend to 2500 ft. Such a big difference in altitude was thoroughly supplemented by visual treats that were as amazing as they were almost unbelievable. The alpine features of the lofty Himalayan ranges are plenty, and the rocky formations are interspersed with streams and cascades that seemed to leap, dance and flash silver in the sunshine, lending an interesting slant to the mountainscape.
Two very beautiful rivers – the Kameng and the Tenga – provide a soothing sight to the eyes. The intense blue of the river waters finds a pale echo in the canopy of the sky. Turn in any direction and as far as you eye can see, the picture is a motif of a green stretch of vibrant flora. Even for the most absent-minded traveller, it is difficult to miss this amazing kaleidoscope of nature’s bounties.
BOMDILLA
Standing at an altitude of 8500 ft, Bomdilla – situated 109 kilometres from Bhalukpong – is surrounded by rolling hills. Adding charm and mystique to the town is the presence of two Buddhist monasteries : the upper monastery and the lower monastery. Sombre, holy and exclusive, the upper monastery is a world far different from the one we live in. In the lower monastery, a gaggle of young lamas adopt us as their new friends. The craft centre here is an interesting display of woodwork, carpet-weaving, spinning and items made of silver. But, perhaps the most stunning spot in the town – both for researchers and laymen, is the district museum.
Arunachal Pradesh with its screen of wilderness, hides a population of numerous tribes. And this museum, with its limited but valuable collections like pakcha, chandung, chuskar – which are native gadgets of the tribes – speaks volumes about their inscrutable world.
A mysterious and poignant note of melancholy floats in the air in Bomdilla. In 1962, the Chinese had reached up to this point, halted and retreated. They left behind a trail of destruction, and several hundred Army men who were martyred. Along the entire route are war memorials, erected in honour of the dead soldiers.
Further away from Bomdilla is Dirang located at 5500 ft. It provides a picture of idyllic bliss. The gurgling Dirang river and the foot suspension bridge present an amazing sight and are waiting to be savoured.
THE MONPAS
The route we are traversing belongs to west Kameng district, inhabited mainly by the Monpas. The age-old Monpa houses with orange corncobs, hanging in branches from verandah roofs, are a sight for sore eyes. Prior to our trip, our doubts about a potential language problem were laid to rest by officials who assured us that the Monpas understand Hindi perfectly. But, it would not have been difficult to converse otherwise in the universal language of smiles with which the Monpas greet a stranger.Th eir gestures are a stark reminder to the decreasing trend of cordial hospitality. Evidently, the world of Monpas is a nice balance between traditionalism and hi-tech modernism, a world not frozen in time but that which is tranquil.
Next morning after crossing Sangrila, an Army camp which is located at 11,000 ft, we are on our way to Se-La. La stands for pass in the local language. Sixty-four kilometres away from Dirang, it is a very diffi cult and rugged terrain. To add to our woes, our car had to negotiate the bends through a dense fog, making it almost impossible to see if we were going the right way. Inside the car, a chilling awareness engulfed us that invisible gorges were lying beside, and one wrong move would have meant certain death.
The sight of the entrance to Se-La was a pleasant relief to us. From here onwards, began our ascent to Tawang. At a height of 13,714 ft, you feel a biting cold in Se-La. As we raced towards Jang, we came across a martyr’s corner. In the war of 1962, rifleman Jaswant Singh gave away his life to save a place called Nuranang. A memorial has been erected here in his honour called Jaswant Garh – the Bastion of Sacrifice.
As we moved on, the sight of cool and mossy nooks gurgling with crystal springs, the winding hilly road, picture-perfect villages nestled on distant slopes and the sound of the crickets’ song – made us lose track of time. However, we realised later that this enchanting panaroma was just a preface, and that, an even more breath-taking scenery awaited us as we approached Nuranang waterfall. Cascading down a steep green rock, this milky-white, magnificent and majestic cataract merging into the azure Tawang river was enough to mesmerise us. I blinked several times to make sure it was not a dream.
Another eighteen kilometres later, we reached Lohu, a hamlet of pristine beauty. From here, Tawang was just twenty kilometers away
TAWANG
The origin of the name Tawang is steeped in a queer legend. The site for the local Gaden Namgyl Lhatse Monastery which is now more than 400 years old was initially spotted with the help of the horse of Mera lama. The lama gave the name Tawang to this place which means “blessed by the horse”.
From a distance, Gaden Namgyl Lhatse Monastery popularly known as Tawang monastery, looks like a fl oating ship. Once you enter it, the awesome interior makes you feel that it is a collage of mystery and aesthetic charm. The museum inside is a vast treasure-trove of rare manuscripts, scrolls, ivoryware, coins of Tibet and other curios.
The Tawang war memorial is also worth a visit, even if only to serve as a reminder of the army men who were martyred in the 1962 war. Photographs of the mortal remains of the soldiers being carried by yaks were a poignant reminder to us and a sadness gripped our hearts as we left the place.
Tawang town at a height of 10,800 ft is like any other found in the hills. But, excursions around the town will take you to peripheral places where one encounters sudden and inexplicable vistas of beauty.
Arunachal Pradesh receives the first rays of the morning sun. A dazzlingly bright sunny day greets us the moment we peep out of the window at 5:30 a.m., and we decide to head for Pankang Teng Tso (P. T. Tso – tso stands for lake) and Shungatser lake. Along the way, we could see abandoned bunkers on the road which are also a reminder of the war.
Stopping at Nagu-La, 16 kilometres from Tawang and standing at 14,500 ft was the frozen P. T. Tso, topped with snow. Never before had we seen such bewildering nuances of snow – snow like white satin, white lather, snow falling like tiny white balls and like white marble. The adjoining black and brown foothills, the seasonal flora with flaming and fi ery colours of red, yellow and green and the ravishing snow provided such a beautiful contrast – it was enough to keep our eyeballs popped.
SHUNGATSER LAKE
We had to move on as we had yet to see Shungatser lake. We reached Bumla point at a height of 14,615 ft which incidentally was the highest spot on the trip. After quite a long drive in another direction, one can reach the Chinese border. But, this zone is off -limits for civilians. A little later, we began descending the mountain and fi nally reached Shungatser lake. Nestled at a height of 13,500 ft, the sight makes you speechless. You can feel it, admire it but can never express it eloquently.
If you want to experience what ecstasy stands for, then Tawang is just the place for you. It is a place with music for the heart, soul and body. Here, every spot will off er you a stopover point to realize how much more incredible than dreams can reality be.
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Monday, March 24th, 2008
NESTLED IN THEIR RICH LUXURIANT FORESTS ARE THE MOST GUARDED TREASURES OF THE SEVEN SISTERS STATES AND THEIR BROTHER SIKKIM. NOWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD CAN ONE FIND SUCH BEAUTIES AND BEAUTIES INDEED THEY ARE. KNOWN AS GEMS IN THE FLORICULTURE WORLD BECAUSE OF THEIR CURIOUS SHAPE AND COLOUR, THEY ARE THE RARE AND ENDEMIC ORCHIDS OF NORTHEAST INDIA.
Orchids are flowers with rather unusual shapes, beautiful colours and a very delicate fragrance. And because they are rare, they are highly prized and sought after, and cultivating them is almost a cult among some of its aficionados. They are too delicate to be able to survive the onslaught of today’s environmental encroachments and consequent pollution and hence need the setting up of an orchidarium or arbour.
The most commonly known variety is Rhynchostylis which consists of a dense, elongated bunch and is also known as kopou. This grows profusely in the region and is often used in bridal decorations in Assam. Because of its long, bushy shape, it is also known as the foxtail orchid. It is estimated that about 1300 species of orchids are reported from India and Northeast India sustains the highest concentration of this with about 700 species. Moreover, as many as 34 species of orchids from this region are listed among the threatened plants of India.
What’s more interesting is that Northeast India forms a distinctive part of the Indo-Burma hotspot which ranks sixth among the 25 biodiversity hotspots of the world. It is also a prime location among the two such regions identifi ed for the Indian sub-continent.
Out of the eight orchid habitat regions in India, the two most important areas namely, the Eastern Himalayas and the Northeastern Region fall within the political boundaries of NER. More than 1/5th of the orchid species found in the region are endemic i.e. they are unique to the region and are not found anywhere in the world.
It is to be noted that some of the orchids featured here are endemic not only to this region but also to the home states in which they are found.
These are –
- Dendrobium spatella, Dendrobium parciflorum and the Luisia macrotis from Assam.
- Blue vanda and Dendrobium palpebrae from Arunachal Pradesh.
- Red chimney and Cymbidium tigrinum from Nagaland.
- Cymbidium eburneum from Meghalaya.
- Red vanda from Tripura.
- Dendrobium palpebrae from Mizoram.
- Epidendrum radicans from Manipur.
- Calanthe whiteana from Sikkim.
The region is also home to other interesting plant species such as the famous Pitcher plant of Meghalaya. The Pitcher Plant or Nepenthes khasiana occurring mainly in the Jarain area of the Jaintia Hills and the Baghmara area of the Garo Hills, remains an inexplicable phenomenon to the botanists even today.
Then we have the Siroi Lily which is a terrestrial lily grown only in the Siroy village in Ukhrul District, Manipur and nowhere else in the world.
The Orchid Research Centre located at Tipi in Arunachal Pradesh’s West Kameng district has been doing yeoman’s service in the preservation and propagation of these rare orchid varieties. This center on the bank of the river Jia Bharali is also Asia’s largest orchidarium and has more than 500 species of orchids.
A very interesting fact is that one of the orchid varieties found in these parts is known as the Lost Indian lady’s slipper– lost, because it was first discovered in the 1850s and was lost for a while before being rediscovered some five decades later; and lady’s slipper because of the shape of the flower.
Roaming around the hills of Meghalaya, one can feel the rich abundance of lovely orchids all around. Mawsmai and Mawmloo in Cherrapunjee contain the highest number of orchid species in the entire state. These are ‘sacred forests’– areas of the primary forests that are venerated and protected by the local people.
Taking a cue from such an innovative method to protect the fragile ecology we can and should devise ways to preserve for posterity, these lovely and endangered orchids of our region. They are the pride and beauty of our land and the onus is on us to protect them. The clock is ticking and tomorrow might be too late..!
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