Sikkim The Last Shangri La
Monday, March 24th, 2008BRITISH AUTHOR JAMES HILTON IN HIS NOVEL, ‘LOST HORIZON’ INTRODUCES THE CONCEPT OF “SHANGRILA”, A MYSTICAL, HARMONIOUS VALLEY, GUIDED FROM A MONASTERY. IT HAS NOW BECOME SYNONYMOUS WITH AN EARTHLY PARADISE, PARTICULARLY A MYTHICAL HIMALAYAN UTOPIA—A PERMANENTLY HAPPY LAND, ISOLATED FROM THE OUTSIDE WORLD.
The nearest thing we can come close to experiencing Shangri-la in real life, is Sikkim – the only brother state of the seven Northeastern sister states. Perched in the midst of the twin mountain kingdoms of Bhutan and Nepal is the tiny state of Sikkim, beckoning the weary travellers with its misty mountains and undulating hills. There is always something that escapes the common eye and attracts the weather beaten traveller to this mystical land.
And it’s only when we delve deeper into its hidden secrets that we come to know and feel its full grandeur. The starting point of our journey is the capital city, Gangtok. The mere mention of this name conjures images of the mist hidden hills, tall gompas and the mystique of Orient. A mere four hour journey from Siliguri, lands one in Gangtok, Which means ‘High Hill.’ Gangtok became the capital in the mid 1800s (previous capitals were at Yuksom and Rabdentse). Sikkimese life is centred around this place. Its Buddhist past is the root of its appeal for visitors, and remains evident at the impressive Institute of Tibetology, the Enchey Monastery, Pemayengtse and the marvellous Rumtek Monastery not far away, the last a thriving centre of Mahayana Buddhism. Sikkim’s pride, the orchid, is nurtured at the Orchid Sanctuary and other sites in and around Gangtok.
With the Kanchenjunga, the world’s third highest mountain and the protective deity of the Sikkimese people - towering overhead and blessed with a magnifi cent landscape of fastflowing rivers and lush forested hills, Sikkim has evolved into a very popular destination in recent times for both domestic and foreign tourists. Let us follow the trail to fi nd out something more about the notable sights basking under the Gangtok sun.
INSTITUTE OF TIBETOLOGY
Just a mile from Gangtok, is the Institute of Tibetology, an organisation dedicated to furthering Tibetan studies, Buddhist philosophy and region. It attracts scholars from all over the world and houses a rare collection of 30,000 books, Tantric documents, rare manuscripts written in gold on the bark of a poisonous tree!
DUL-DUL CHORTEN & JHANG CLUB CHORTAN
Near the Deorali bazaar, are two exquisite stupas, the “Dul-dul-Chorten”, to commemorate the victory of good over evil, and the “Jhang Club Chorten”, built to perpetuate the memory of a great spiritualist of today. Th rul-Shik Rinpoche an ardent devotee of Buddha and one of his best interpreters died in 1962, and the stupa immortalises Rimpoche in the land of his birth.
TSUK-LA-KHANG MONASTERY
This monastery is located in the palace premises near the ridge in Gangtok. It is two-storeyed and was used during royal functions like weddings and coronations. Th e Phang Labsol and the Lossang festivals are celebrated in the ground adjacent to the monastery once every year, with the performance of the ‘Chhams’ or the masked dances.
ENCHEY MONASTERY
It is situated in Gangtok on a hill top. It was built during the reign of Thutob Namgyal.
DEER PARK
Embraced by gardens of flowers, lies a beautiful Deer Park – an ideal place to feel solitude, beside the Secretariat. Built to commemorate the Buddha’s reincarnation as a musk deer, it has a large fi elded statue of Buddha under a beautiful canopy in preaching posture, a replica of the statue at Sarnath in Uttar Pradesh, where Lord Buddha delivered his fi rst sermon. It is a popular viewpoint on the edge of the ridge.
A unique feature of Sikkimese culture are its famous mask dances which provides a spectacle, perhaps nowhere to be experienced in the entire world. Performed by lamas in the ‘Gompa’ courtyard to celebrate religious festivals, these dances demonstrate perfect footwork and grace.
For the more adventurous kind, a little detour outside Gangtok offers a plethora of varied images in the form of the famed monasteries of Sikkim, some of which are –
RUMTEK MONASTERY
About 24 km from Gangtok, by meandering roads through emerald green rice terraces, lies Rumtek, the main monastery of Kagyud or ‘Black Hat’ sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Built in 1959 by His Holiness the 16th Reincarnated Gyalwa Karmapa, head of the Kagyud sect, it is a replica of Tsurphu Monastery from the Kham region of Tibet.
PEMAYANGTSE MONASTERY
Built in 1705, it is Sikkim’s second oldest monastery and second most important. This ancient monastery is the headquarters of the Nyingmapa Buddhist sect of Sikkim. Inside are great murals fi lled with thousands of deities from the Tibetan Buddhist pantheon. On the top fl oor is a wooden sculpture, the Zandog-Palri, which depicts the heavenly abode of Guru Padmasambhava.
YUKSOM
Yuksom, in the west of Gangtok, is an historical town set amidst pristine hills and lakes, where the first King of Sikkim was crowned in AD 1642. From here the adventurous can trek to Dzongri and Gochi-La. Th e reward for undertaking this strenuous excursion is an unequalled fi rst-hand experience of the high Himalaya peaks, glaciers and icefalls. A superb panorama of the Eastern Himalayas awaits the trekker.
A top spot on the ‘not to be missed’ list while in Sikkim, is the TSOMGO LAKE. Tsomgo lake in Sikkim is a holy lake worshipped by the Sikkimese. Tsomgo (Changu) lake, which is hardly 20 km away from the famous Nathula Pass and about 400 km from Lhasa. Its cool, placid water is in perfect harmony with the picturesque beauty around, which is increased by its refl ection in the lake. A small temple of Lord Shiva is built on the lakeside. Primula flowers and other alpine plantation grow around the Tsomgo lake. During the winter months, the Tsomo Lake becomes frozen.
Wonders never cease in North Sikkim with each turn, each valley, each rivulet trying to outdo the other in the scenic beauty that it off ers. Another much sought after spot in the north is the LACHUNG village. Hidden away from the prying eyes of the tourism department is this gem of a place, unravelling its secrets only to the few discerning travellers. An idyllic mountain village set amidst apple orchards and lofty peaks on both sides, Lachung, at an altitude of 2,500 meters above sea level, permeates an ethereal alpine glow.
For those worn out by the morbidity of routine urban life, a few days in this pristine setting is guaranteed to recharge the batteries. But more than that, is the sweet taste of lingering memories, one carries back with him, of a place hidden in the hills, a place they call Sikkim…
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